The "By Maria" Foundation starts where the shoes pinch

Around 55 million pairs of shoes are produced annually in Colombia and exported all over the world. This makes shoe production one of the most important sectors of the South American country's economy. However, due to increasing competition from China, the pressure is rising - especially on the many small workshops. "Things are anything but good for them," says Catalina Jossen Cardozo.

She should know: For six years, the native Colombian worked as an independent entrepreneur and consultant in the industry.

Sustainable and fair

Catalina Jossen Cardozo moved to Switzerland in 2014 for love and decided to study for a master's degree at the Department of Design & Art at Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts. From the beginning, it was clear to her that she wanted to dedicate her master's thesis to the shoe industry in her home country, but not as a designer of chic footwear. "The central question for me was: How can I connect small producers, designers and end customers and promote sustainable shoe production?" says the 35-year-old.

Their idea: an online platform, including a 3D construction kit, with which designers can create shoes and have them produced in Colombia in small editions and with high-quality craftsmanship. End consumers purchase the largely custom-made products at a reasonable price, and the Colombian shoemakers receive a fair wage and a direct share of the sales proceeds.

First master's thesis, then research project

Last year, Catalina Jossen Cardozo received an award for outstanding graduates from the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts for her work called "By Maria". The panel was also convinced by "Bridge": the new funding program of the Swiss National Science Foundation (SNSF) and the Commission for Technology and Innovation (CTI) is aimed at young researchers who develop their findings into concrete applications or services.

101 ideas were entered in the first call for entries and eleven - including "By Maria" - were included in the program. One reason for the decision: Catalina Jossen Cardozo's concept also has potential for traditional craft industries in Switzerland, which are generally located more in the medium- to high-price segment.

A foundation for shoemakers

Thanks to the Bridge program, the young researcher can continue her work with a small international team. "In Bogotá, we held workshops with interested shoemakers. We analyzed how they organize their work so far, what materials they have available and what they need in terms of additional equipment or know-how." In order to better support the shoemakers on site, the "By Maria" Foundation was established.

The company provides participating workshops with equipment free of charge and even pays social benefits for the employees of the small businesses. "It is important to us that they do not see the whole thing as a mere gift," emphasizes Jossen Cardozo. That's why the shoemakers commit to a longer-term involvement in the project and regularly take part in free training courses. "After all, the end customer should receive high-quality products."

Test sustainability concept

Not only the needs of shoemakers, but also those of designers and buyers were elicited in workshops, because: "If they are not convinced, then the tool will never get off the ground," says Catalina Jossen Cardozo. For example, how can the entire range of individual parts of a shoe - soles, heels, different uppers or closures - be attractively presented?

How should the instructions for measuring a foot or, more generally, the communication channels in the tool be designed in an appealing and comprehensible way? According to Jossen Cardozo, there was a conflict between high design standards and modest financial resources. It was difficult to communicate this to an IT specialist, recalls Jossen Cardozo.

"It took us a long time to find someone to program the platform who understood that we're still at the very beginning and that it's not certain whether and when we can really make money with it. Nor is it about an online store à la Zalando: "For us, the first thing is to check whether our concept works at all.

Only when we have gained experience can we expand the website and then also have a 3D tool programmed for designers," says Jossen Cardozo. She is now moving at a brisk pace towards the practical test: The test version of the platform is to go online this year and the first "Made by Maria" shoes are to go into production.

More information at: www.bymaria.ch